Part one: SAMAKI OVERDOSE
Sipping passion juice at
a crowded café, I zone out on the balcony while buses blaze through crowds of
people below. Sophisticated assemblies discuss around tables as they inhale
chai lattes and slabs of vanilla cake. We are all waiting for traffic to die to
get home. I scroll through my inbox messages.
ANNOUNCEMENT:
Two workers needed immediately to transport machine
from Kampala to Nairobi – Pliz call now - Biggy
I left the noisy café
and called the number.
“There is a group of
youth banking off a new machine they invented. We need to bring one to Nairobi. Get
to Kampala and look for a guy named Mansour. He’s in Najanankumbi” said Biggy
on the other end.
Farouk, my long time comrade, was the man for
the job. I’ve seen him make miracles too many times to mention. Thankfully he
was picking calls.
“I’m in my village
building my house, help me here then we go to Kampala. Kuja tukule samaki” Come we eat fish.
That’s how I ended up on
the 9:30 night bus to Busia with a bag holding little more than a camera and my
notebook. My friend the businessman ‘Biggy’ met me at the bus station. He
handed me my ticket and a bag jammed full of Miraa to pump me full of
amphetamines during the 8 hour bus ride. I hate sleeping on the bus.
Fortunately Farouk’s
place in Western Kenya is on the way to Uganda. Right beside the Ugandan
border. Where giant tribes share the infinite body of water called Lake
Victoria. Home of young Obama who picked firewood for his grandmother before
taking breakfast.
9 hours of Lingala music
on the bus later and I was on the back of a motorcycle whipping through dirt
roads with Farouk taking me to his village nestled in a thriving valley. His shamba
was full of cows, chickens, sheep, dogs all living off the green plants that
gush all over the fertile ground. After I got the tour and we sat for tea.
“Farouk I have a job for
us”
“Hahaha so wewe ni mtu wa job” Laughed a young
guy who was introduced as ‘Roba’. Roba was young but looked like he could rip
the arms off anyone. Before I could explain myself, Roba handed me a shovel and
we were digging a hole the size of a swimming pool. Now I was to learn how to
build a traditional mud house. Farouk’s house.
“Leo unapiga udongo!” Today you build with mud! Mama Farouk
cheered to me. The sun was kicking me in the face and my eyes were full of
sand. I needed sleep but no, we must build. Then we eat fish.
The next few days were spent carrying
wheelbarrows of mud and sand to various places and as we finished one job
another appeared, stopping in between to eat fish. Calculating mud to thrash
against a wall is a nice feeling. Our hands cramped from carrying heavy chunks
but the cool texture was nice to grab. We gave Mama Farouk a new floor in her
living room. We were in her good books after that.
We also attended a
funeral a few towns over where our friend Biggy had involved Farouk with some
business. I stood under a tree as people sang “Niwe nawe Mungu milele” in tearful harmony and I looked around for
Roba. Wearing his nicest clothes, there he was ripping shovels of soil into a
six-foot hole belonging to someone he had never met in his life. The friends of
the deceased were beat from the heat and booze. I joined for a while but Roba filled
the entire hole almost singlehandedly.
As much as work was
kicking my ass, the village was calm and beautiful and I was thankful to be out
of the city. At night Farouk took me around to visit different family and
friends who laughed as they unsuccessfully tried to teach me Luo language.
On the way back to his
place, a group of kids passed us a bag full of giant black ants with wings. I
would see the creatures again the next morning served beside bread and tea
(more bugs later on in the story). After I chewed some fried winged ants we were on
the bus heading for the Uganda Border. I had totally lost track of time and
decided to finally turn my phone on. The following message appeared:
THE MACHINE IS WAITING –
MANSOUR
And who said there is no life in the village for city boys? Even from East side Vancouver? The winged creatures in a bag, we call them Tsiswa in my mother tongue. They are more yummy when eaten raw......
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